Hotel Review: BYAKU Narai – Is It Worth It?

 

Trying to decide whether a stay at BYAKU Narai is worth it? I share my personal experience and outline everything you need to know about this boutique hotel in Narai-juku in my hotel review.

 
Luxury guest room at BYAKU Narai in Narai-juku, Japan, featuring a minimalist Japanese design with shoji screens, wooden interiors, and soft ambient lighting.
 

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Are you considering a stay at BYAKU Narai? I stayed at this luxury property after completing a 3-day hike through part of the Nakasendo Way and it exceeded my expectations. Paying homage to the heritage of the buildings this boutique hotel in Narai-juku occupies, there are a lot of reasons to indulge in a night or two at historic property.

In this review of BYAKU Narai, I’ll be covering the atmosphere and history of the property, the rooms and hotel amenities, as well as the dining experience. If you’re looking for the short answer on whether I’d recommend staying at BYAKU Narai, then the answer is yes. This is one of my favourite hotel experiences I’ve ever had in Japan.

A wooden table in a tatami room at BYAKU Narai.

Room 113 at BYAKU Narai.

Restaurant entrance at Kura, BYAKU narai hotel in Narai Juku. A noren curtain with the BYAKU logo is hung from a wooden frame and there are red japanese maples in the foreground out of focus.

Garden at BYAKU Narai.

Overview

BYAKU Narai lies in the centre of Narai-juku, the largest post town along the Old Nakasendo Road that connected Kyoto to Edo (modern day Tokyo). Breathing new life into four of the town's historic Edo-period buildings, this boutique hotel opened in 2021 as part of a project to revitalise Narai-juku and expand the town’s limited accommodation offering.

The buildings are former merchant storehouses, of which the features like large vault-like doors can still be seen in the renovated rooms, and the former Suginomori Shuzo Sake Brewery. Designed as a luxury, boutique hotel, the property’s approach intentionally marries preservation with modern comfort for an elevated rural stay.

The kaiseki dining experience is superb with an emphasis on local, seasonal ingredients. And there are several amenities that make the entire stay indulgent:

  • Kura – the on-site restaurant named after the sake storehouse it now occupies, specialising in seasonal, Japanese mountain cuisine.

  • Tasting Bar Suginomori – a renovated miso storehouse has been transformed into a bar serving Narai sake as well as a range of wines from the surrounding Shijori region.

  • SAN-SEN – the hotel’s public bath house sourcing mountain spring water from the Shinano River, to soak in the healing mineral waters.

  • Gallery Hoihoi – the space is renovated from the former Hoi Hoi guest house which was instrumental in the history of this post town and showcases works that honour the local culture and crafts.

two casual armchairs with a small side table are set in front of a bench with a mirror beside traditional japanese sliding paper doors.
Reception area of BYAKU Narai with low mood lighting in recessed wooden chelves and large ceramic vessels on display.

BYAKU Narai reception.

The Vibe

Everything about BYAKU Narai says quiet luxury. Blending traditional Japanese architecture with high-end amenities and dining, it’s perfect for couples and travellers looking for an elevated experience that they’ll remember for years to come. 

A stay at BYAKU Narai offers a serene ambience where privacy is paramount. I’d add this hotel straight to my Japan honeymoon list if I was planning to spend time in the Kiso Valley. 

The Location

BYAKU Narai is located at the centre of Narai-juku in Nagano Prefecture, one of the largest and most well-known post towns on the Nakasendo Trail. The property is roughly a 5-minute walk from Narai-juku JR station, which connects the town to Matsumoto, Nakatsugawa, and various towns throughout the Kiso Valley.

If you’re driving, there is also parking available nearby free of charge.

edo-period wooden buildings line a narrow paved road. Lanterns are hanging outside several buildings, lit at dusk.

Just outside BYAKU Narai on the main street of Narai-juku.

Rooms

There are 16 rooms across the property, several of them occupying buildings along the centre of town. Each room is uniquely designed, honouring the building's historic details and heritage. Rooms vary in size and style, from moody spaces to airy suites with more traditional style architecture and features such as tatami and exposed beams.

I stayed in room 113 in the annex building, which features a private outdoor bath, mountain views, and light wood finishes throughout. My suite also had a lounge area to relax and a large open-plan bathroom that connected to the outdoor deck with a bath. 

You can choose the room type you want to stay in, with some featuring garden spaces and others with private saunas. Most rooms accommodate two people, however several offer space for up to four, so would suit families.

A white linen bed in the foreground of a light wood traditional japanese rooms. Pyjamas are on the back corner of the bed with paper walls in the background.

Room 113 at BYAKU Narai, which includes an outdoor bath and mountain views.

BYAKU Narai Breakfast and Dinner

Dining forms a huge part of the experience at BYAKU Narai, with dinner and breakfast often booked as part of a package during your stay. Kura, the onsite restaurant serves seasonal dishes grounded in Kiso-region ingredients. Everything about the dining experience at Kura emphasises the beauty and craftsmanship of the region, with meals plated on local Kiso lacquerware and ceramics.

Dinner is a mutli-course kaiseki with a rotating menu dependent on seasonal produce, often featuring mountain vegetables, fresh-caught fish, and beef. My dinner at Kura is by far one of my standout meals of my most recent trip to Japan. 

Fresh mountain vegetable salad on a silver lacquerware plate on a dark wooden table.

Fresh mountain vegetable salad.

serving of sliced beef with a fried lotus root on a square black and red lacquerware plate.

Sliced wagyu beef at Kura restaurant, BYAKU Narai.

Tapping into the property’s history, there is also a partnership with the on-site sake brewery which offers sake pairings, as well as a selection of wines from across Japan. I particularly enjoyed the red from Nagano that I ordered with dinner.

In the morning, a traditional Japanese breakfast is served at Kura, typically presented in a bentwood box. With authentic Japanese breakfast cuisine such as fish, natto (fermented soy beans), pickled vegetables, and tamagoyaki (Japanese omelette) all on offer. 

traditional japan breakfast with multiple bowls and plates made from lacquerware filled with pickeled vegetables, salmon, rice, and natto.

Breakfast at BYAKU Narai.

Is BYAKU Narai Worth Staying at?

If you’re looking for a memorable stay in the heart of the Kiso Valley or to complement exploring the Nakasendo Way, then booking a stay at BYAKU Narai is 100% worth it. Whether you’re hiking, exploring the post towns by car, or simply looking to explore beyond the Golden Route, then this is perfect. 

Yes, this boutique hotel is a luxury option. However, with the incredible dining experience, high-end amenities, and peaceful surroundings it is one worth enjoying.

 

Continue planning your travels along the Nakasendo Way and Nagano with these guides.

Looking for a self-guided hiking itinerary? Try this 3-day Nakasendo Trail guide

Just want a day hike? A day walking between Magome to Tsumago is perfect

Need more Nakasendo accommodation? Check out guides to Magome, and Tsumago and Nagiso

Take a winter day trip from Nagano to Togakushi Shrine

Plan your adventure to see the snow monkeys in Nagano

 
Bronwyn Townsend

Bronwyn Townsend is a travel photographer, writer, and blogger who optimises all of her annual leave around seeing the world. She loves documenting the seasons, hiking in the mountains, and exploring historic towns. Her work has been published in National Geographic Traveller, Conde Nast Traveler, Lodestars Anthology, and Elle.

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Where to stay in Tsumago and Nagiso, Nakasendo Trail