A Complete Guide to Hiking the Magome to Tsumago Trail
Walking the Magome to Tsumago route on the Nakasendō Way is like stepping back into Edo-period Japan. Trace the steps of this ancient samurai route filled with cobbled paths, shaded cedar forests, and unspoiled countryside. Connecting two impressively preserved post towns in the Kiso Valley, enjoy heritage inns, mountain vistas and access a glimpse into life centuries ago.
Tsumago-juku.
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The old Nakasendo Road is steeped in history and is a must-visit destination for those wanting to connect with Japan’s Edo-period post towns and nature. A place where modern day travelers can hike in the footsteps of samurai and feudal lords, the Magome to Tsumago Trail is enjoyed as a day trip or part of a longer mutli-day excursion along the Nakasendo Way.
Serving as the most popular section of the 534km Nakasendo Trail, the towns that bookend this scenic hiking route are some of the most picturesque in rural Japan. Restored Edo-era inns welcome visitors, handcrafted goods showcasing traditional crafts, and ultimately a sense of calm away from the frenetic energy of places like Tokyo and Osaka await you in this area of the Kiso Valley.
In this guide, I provide a detailed breakdown of everything you need to know to plan your hike along the Magome to Tsumago route, from how to get to the towns, where to stay if you plan an overnight visit, and what to expect on your hike.
View in Magome-juku.
View in Tsumago.
Why Hike the Magome to Tsumago Trail?
If you’ve landed here, you’ve either already decided to hike between Tsumago and Magome, or you are trying to decide whether it’s worth adding to your Japan itinerary. Spoiler alert: it is!
The Magome to Tsumago section of the Nakasendo Way is one of the most scenic sections of the hike and it can easily be done in a day trip, still allowing you to visit both villages too. The trail isn’t too difficult, so most people will be able to complete the 8km route within three hours. I saw everyone from small children to grandparents enjoying this bucolic area that crosses between Gifu and Nagano Prefectures.
If you are looking for an outdoor activity that is well-connected with many of Japan’s most popular destinations, then walking the Magome to Tsumago trail is perfect.
Mountain scenes in Magome, Gifu.
A Brief History of the Nakasendo Trail
The Nakasendo (中山道), one of five of Japan’s historic Edo-period highways, once linked the imperial city of Kyoto with Edo (modern-day Tokyo). Winding approximately 534 kilometers (331 miles) across the heart of Honshu, the route weaves its way through 69 post towns, with many of the best preserved among them nestled in the picturesque Kiso Valley. Along its full length, the Nakasendo traverses Tokyo, Saitama, Gunma, Nagano, Gifu, Shiga, and Kyoto Prefectures.
The name Nakasendo translates to “Central Mountain Route” or “Inner Mountain Road”, a fitting description for a path that cut through mountain ranges and carried samurai, merchants, and daimyo (feudal lords). During the Edo era, the ruling Tokugawa shogunate established five major highways to control the flow of people, goods, and information, with the Nakasendo serving as one of the most vital arteries through Central Honshu.
In the later Edo years, when religious pilgrimages were sanctioned but leisure travel was still restricted, the Nakasendo became a key route for movement across Japan. Its many post towns offered weary travelers food and lodging in traditional inns. Today, these towns make the Nakasendō Trail a sought-after hiking destination.
Views in Magome.
Magome vs. Tsumago: Where to Start Your Hike
I spent so much time researching the best route to take when hiking along the Nakasendo Trail. And after much deliberation, I decided to start in Magome. If you start in Magome, you will have a shorter incline at the beginning, and then more decline as you continue along the route towards Tsumago.
There is no right or wrong way to do it, and no matter which town you start in, you’ll be rewarded with a beautiful trail and exceptional views when you reach either town to conclude your hike.
View looking down the main road through Tsumago.
How to Get to Magome and Tsumago
While Magome and Tusmago might seem remote, getting to these post towns isn’t as difficult as it might appear at first glance. I’m providing directions to reach this area on the Nakasendo Way from a few key departure points.
From Tokyo
The journey to Magome from Tokyo takes around 3 hours in total. First take the Tokaido Line Shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagoya. From there, take the Shinano limited express from Nagoya to Nakatsugawa Station (approx 50 mins), then jump on a bus (20 mins) from outside Nakatsugawa Station to Magome. The bus isn’t covered by the JR pass, however the Shinano limited express is covered by the JR Pass, and some regional passes.
To get to Tsumago from Tokyo, take the same Tokaido Shinkansen to Nagoya, then catch the Shinano JR Line or the Chuo Line to Nagiso approx 80 minutes (a change is likely required at Nakatsugawa) and then jump on a bus (10 mins) to Tsumago, or take a taxi.
From Nagoya
The journey to Magome from Nagoya is just the second half of the journey from Tokyo. You need to take the Shinano limited express from Nagoya to Nakatsugawa Station (approx 50 mins), then jump on a bus (20 mins) from outside Nakatsugawa Station to Magome. The bus isn’t covered by the JR pass, however the Shinano limited express is covered by the JR Pass, and some regional passes.
From Nagoya to Tsumago, catch the Shinano JR Line or the Chuo Line to Nagiso approx 80 minutes (a change is likely required at Nakatsugawa) and then jump on a bus (10 mins) to Tsumago, or take a taxi.
From Matsumoto
From Matsumoto to Magome, take the Shinano JR Line from Matsumoto to Nakatsugawa (approx 2 hours) and then switch to the bus from outside Nakatsugawa Station (20 mins) to Magome.
To reach Tsumago from Matsumoto, take the Shinonoi JR Line to Nagiso (approx 2 hours), then catch the bus (10 mins) from Nagiso Station to Tsumago, or take a taxi from Nagiso.
From Kyoto/Osaka
The journey from Kyoto or Osaka to Magome starts with the Tokaido Line Shinkansen from either Shin-Osaka or Kyoto Station to Nagoya. From there, take the Shinano limited express from Nagoya to Nakatsugawa Station (approx 50 mins), then jump on a bus (20 mins) from outside Nakatsugawa Station to Magome. The bus isn’t covered by the JR pass, however the Shinano limited express is covered by the JR Pass, and some regional passes.
To get to Tsumago from Osaka or Kyoto, take the same Tokaido Shinkansen to Nagoya, then catch the Shinano JR Line or the Chuo Line to Nagiso approx 80 minutes (a change is likely required at Nakatsugawa) and then jump on a bus (10 mins) to Tsumago, or take a taxi.
Traditional merchant building in Magome.
Entrance at Magome Chaya.
Trail Overview: Distance, Difficulty, and Duration
Wondering how long the hike from Magome to Tsumago is? The route is around 8.5km long and can be covered in 2-3 hours. My husband and I completed the hike in a little under three hours with lots of photo stops (obviously) and a pit stop for freshly brewed green tea at a teahouse on the route.
We weren’t in a rush, so this was perfectly timed for us and gave us plenty of time to spend in Magome in the morning and enjoy Tsumago when we arrived. I found this stretch of the three-day Nakasendo route that we completed to be the easiest, and a lot of the route is a cobbled path rather than a strenuous hike.
Highlights Along the Trail
As I’ve already mentioned, I recommend starting your hike in Magome, as there are fewer inclines if you start in Magome and finish in Tsumago. Aim to reach Magome by 9am so you have time to walk around the town, visit the stores selling handmade ceramics and carved wood keepsakes, and sample some of the local snacks, like dango and oyaki.
Before you leave town, stop in at the Magome Tourist Information Centre and collect a Nakasendo stamp card for ¥300. They will stamp it for you in Magome and then head to the tourist office in Tsumago for your stamp when you complete the route, which is a lovely memento of your hike.
Hiking commemorative Magome to Tsumago trail stamp card.
The wide cobblestone path running through the centre of Magome-juku provides postcard perfect views thanks to the hilly geography of the town, and this is the start of the trail. Pass by Edo-era merchant houses and traditional inns, many now hosting an array of stores, restaurants, and accommodation for modern travellers. As you reach the top of town, you’ll cross the road and on the right side is Magome Jinbakami Observatory. Offering sweeping views of Mt Ena which reaches almost 2,200 metres at the summit, it's from this viewpoint that the hike begins to feel more trail-like as you exit town.
View from Magome Jinbakami Observatory.
The early stretch of the Magome to Tsumago trail passes through rural farms and gardens, past historic wooden watermills, and alongside a babbling stream, all adding to the bucolic setting. The path continues on an incline in these early stages, as signs indicate the increasing elevation as you make your way along the Magome Pass.
A few times, you’ll cross roads, feel like you’re hiking through private gardens (and you probably are, but there are signs welcoming you to enjoy the space respectfully as you hike), and pass through tiny hamlets that feel like they were frozen in time.
A little less than midway along the route is Ichikokutochi Tateba Chaya, a restored teahouse run by volunteers from the Tsumago Preservation Society. Stop here, enjoy a freshly brewed green tea, and mark on the chalkboard where you’re visiting from as you chat with other hikers.
More than 200 years old, the Tateba Tea House has been welcoming travellers for refreshment and a place to rest. We learned, as we sipped our tea, that the dark wooden interior is created as a treatment via smoke to protect the building from pests and other ailments. In spring, the large weeping sakura in front of the tea house is in bloom with fluffy pink flowers, some of which we were lucky enough to catch the last of.
Beyond the tea house, the path cuts through towering hinoki cypress forest and mossy boulders lay beside the trail. Shaded, the area is lovely to walk through on a sunny day as the sunlight filters through the canopy. By now, you’re well and truly on the descent. A little over halfway through the hike, you’ll see signs for Odaki and Medaki Waterfalls. These are tucked just off the main path and are a must-visit while you’re hiking.
Tateba Tea House.
Odaki and Medaki waterfalls.
From here, you’ll pass through a few small rural villages, some were selling hand-carved wood items like children’s toys, and others were an idyllic scene of wisteria-covered wooden machiya and rural Japanese gardens. As you round the descent into Otsumago, a larger village just before Tsumago, you’ll feel the route become noticeably more residential.
On the outskirts of Tsumago, you’ll cross over the Araragi River, and soon after see a building on the edge of town with an enormous straw horse. Just a few steps on, and you’ll sense a different atmosphere due to the strict preservation rules which keep wires hidden and signage minimal so the town looks authentically Edo-era.
Display at Rest House Fureaikan in Tsumago.
Small rural hamlet on the route.
Take your time strolling through Tsumago, as the town feels like an open-air museum. Stop in at the Rest House Fureaikan, where the Preservation Society showcases regional crafts and specialties, or spend time at Wakihonjin, the second-most important inn which has been converted into a museum.
Best Time of Year to Hike the Trail
I hiked the Nakasendo in early May, and the weather was perfect. Not too hot or cold, mostly dry weather over our multi-day hike, and the trail had a few spots with lingering spring blooms too.
The best time of year to hike between Magome and Tsumago is spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). I’m actually itching to return and hike the area again in November when the fall foliage is at its peak.
Tsumago in spring.
Magome in spring.
What to Pack for the Magome to Tsumago Hike
If you’re completing the Magome to Tsumago hike as a day trip, then you don’t need to take too much with you. If you are completing this section of the hike as a multi-day trip, then you can find my detailed packing list here.
Comfortable hiking pants
Hiking shoes/boots
Fleece (in spring, autumn, or winter)
Waterproof jacket
Spare socks (it’s nice to change them after a hike)
Reusable water bottle
Snacks
Camera/batteries/memory card (you’re going to want to take photos!)
Cash (a lot of places operate on a cash-only basis in these towns, including accommodation)
Walking through Magome.
Where to stay to Hike From Magome to Tsumago
If you want to spend a night in either town (which I absolutely recommend), then you will need to book in advance as there are limited options. As I completed this trail as part of a longer trip, I stayed in both towns.
Magome Chaya | A simple, yet cosy traditional minshuku offering both private tatami rooms and dorm-style accommodations. You can also add on dinner and breakfast, which I recommend, as there are limited options open in town.
Daikichi Inn | A boutique minshuku with four rooms, offering an intimate experience. One of just a few accommodation options in Tsumago, and they serve an incredible dinner and breakfast. Vegetarian options can be arranged if you let them know in advance. You need to reach out to the property directly to enquire about booking.
If you can’t reserve a night in either town, then you could also stay nearby in Nakastugawa.
Onn Nakatsugawa | Comfortable, modern hotel with all your usual conveniences and amenities. There is a public sento which is lovely to soak in after a day of hiking. Just a 5-minute walk from the train and bus station, making public transport connections easy.
Private room at Magome Chaya Guest house.
Dining space at Daikichi Inn, Tsumago.
How to Use Luggage Forwarding Between Magome and Tsumago
If you are completing this hike as a day trip, then I recommend forwarding your main luggage from one hotel to the next instead of dragging it along with you. However, if you are hiking the trail and staying overnight, then there is a luggage transfer service between Magome and Tsumago tourist offices.
The service costs ¥1,000 per bag and operates between mid-March until late-November. All you need to do is drop your bag off between 8:30-11am at the tourist information office in either town and pick it up at the other end before 5pm. This works whether you walk in either direction.
Final Thoughts: Enjoying the Magome to Tsumago Trail Experience
Hiking several sections of the Nakasendo Way remains one of my favourite experiences in Japan to date. And that says a lot, considering I’ve travelled across 25 prefectures and spent more than six months in the country over four trips. Whether you plan on hiking the Magome to Tsumago trail as a day trip or a longer Nakasendo hiking trip, it is a fantastic way to get a glimpse into the historic pockets of the Central Alps and enjoy time in nature.
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